Monday, 28 January 2013


Umm....whose idea was it to do London menswear shows the first week of January ie we are practically still in our pjs cos it's Boxing Day?? Please can we not do that again. It gave us CRAZY FACE.

Anyway, London's menswear was pretty awesome, and a personal highlight for me was Martine Rose who I love. 

She plays with references, fabrics, cuts, cleverly remixing them into something new and disorientating. The stripped back presentation format in an awkward venue only added to the intensity. It was lyrical, experimental and brilliant. 

The press release said the collection was inspired by ancient sovereignty and Jamaica's Rasta community where the art of dressing is to elevate status not through material riches, through attitude, detail, ritual. But she was giving me more on top - Northern Soul, Acid House, Dancehall, Punk, all colliding. And the casting and styling? OMG. 

Martine's freestyle approach kind of reminds me of the way the Wild Bunch (pre-Massive Attack) used to put their sets together. I grew up on their music at street parties and sneaking into the Dug Out club where their brilliantly selected tunes and samples collided with whoever was chatting on the mic.....

It takes a certain knowledge, appreciation, confidence and sensitivity to mash stuff up and create newness. Controlled chaos. The finest hot mess. 

Most love for Martine. And for Horace Andy's vocals on my favourite track from an album that still sounds epic after all these years...